Welcome back dolls, I hope you have had a fabulous week with your new BFF (your skin) and have been learning everything about it including what it needs and wants to THRIVE and be its best self! Remember our skin is the biggest organ in our body and it does a pretty fab job in protecting us against all sorts of nasties out there set out to destroy our perfect skin! Think of the evil queen from snow white trying to get you to bite the apple! Our skin protects us from all those free radicals; UV rays, Pollution, dehydration... THE LIST GOES ON!! So, without you standing by your trusty sidekick, tightening its gloves and feeding it the essential nutrients whilst it battles away all those nasties for our ENTIRE life it's going to start looking a little dull, tired and worn. SO, this is going to be a bit more of an educational informative post today, SORRY but I really feel you'll benefit!
Lets recap from last week, shall we?!
There are 5 types of skin, these are;
Normal
Combination
Dry
Sensitive
Oily
Your skin type has a huge effect on how you should treat it and not all skin types will be the same for everyone, what works for me, may not work for anyone else. Even if we were to share the same skin type, everyone is perfectly unique, so its finding out what products are the best for you and your skin to get the desired results. Hopefully after a week of becoming besties with your skin, you would have figured out which category of skin type that you fall into, but remember, we're talking skin TYPE and not skin CONDITION, these are two different things. We want to strip things right back to basics and get you building a routine for your skin TYPE first. You'll likely find that once you start with a good routine, a lot of your skin condition concerns may start to fade. Remember this post is all about TREATING your skin type.
Shall we get to it?
NORMAL - Key word: Simple (sorry but it's true)
You lucky things, the great thing about normal skin is that there is an abundance of products available to you to try. Now this isn't a free for all or an excuse to chuck anything and everything onto your face as even normal skin can suffer from irritation to particular products and can still suffer from skin conditions that you may also like to treat. Generally, a good balanced skin care routine to keep your perfectly balanced skin in check is all you need.
Normal Skin can benefit from;
Acid Blends - These are fab for normal skin as you can get the most from one product - Normal skin is pretty compatible with most Acids. Citric Acid - This is gentle Alpha Hydroxy Acid and keeps the balance in skin complexion whilst also beating off those dead skin cells. It's also a great antioxidant that promotes skin regeneration. With Normal skin, you want to stick to skin and PH balancing face washes, a soothing toner, moisturiser and always SPF, exfoliate twice a week and you're good to go! Short and sweet!!
COMBINATION - Key word: Consistent.
Anyone with this skin type knows how confusing it is to find their way through the maze of skin care. With different parts of your face varying in concerns it can be tough to find a good balance in your routine. But not to worry, there are products out there that will help leave your skin feeling re-hydrated and refreshed.
BHA exfoliants - Beta Hydroxy Acids are AMAZING for combo skin! Not only do they get rid of dry dehydrated skin cells, they actually leave your skin more hydrated! This is because they get inside of your pores as well as the top layer of your skin. An added bonus is that they are a great anti-aging treatment due to their power to regenerate skin cells and repair sun damage.
Linoleic Acid - A fab product for combo skin! This little gem helps maintain and clean pores without blocking them, in effect it will ensure your dry areas will get packed full of moisture without upsetting the oily parts of your face!
Malic Acid - This is a gentle exfoliant that also adds moisture back into your skin, it's also great for hyperpigmentation. Malic acid makes up a family that includes fruits such as apples and pears (stairs?).
With combination skin you want to keep up a consistent routine so your skin can get used to products, try washing your face twice daily with an unscented water-soluble cleanser to wash away dirt and oils. Cleanser can be lotion or gel based and then you'll want to tone with an antioxidant filled toner followed by an oil free moisturiser, incorporate the above treatments in between to treat and really combat your skin concerns. With combo skin there really is no one size fits all as it will vary on how oily your oily bits are vs how dry your dry bits are, so you will have to treat these areas separately. Last but not least DON'T FORGET YOUR SPF!
DRY -Keyword: Hydrate Dry skin can be extremely tricky in the world of skin care, it's about finding products that are not going to irritate the skin further. Dry skin can come with all sorts of skin concerns as it can be extremely sensitive and suffer from issues such as acne , texture, hydration and aging.
Ascorbic Acid - AKA Vitamin C (what a superstar). This is an absolute MUST HAVE if you have dry and flaky skin. This bad boy evens our skin tone, improves hyperpigmentation, and it tones the skin leaving you with brighter and clearer skin. Vitamin C repairs damage from pollution and other external stressors. This is a must in your routine as it fights the signs of aging and repairs skin damage. Glycolic Acid - Having dryer skin means your skin care will need to work much harder to shed the dead skin in order to leave you glowing and refreshed. Glycolic Acid is an Alpha Hydroxy Acid that is found in sugar crops, and I'll be honest it has a strong smell of rum (mmm - for those of you who don't know rum is made from sugar cane - I had the pleasure of seeing this process first hand in Mauritius, and drank straight from the sugar cane!) Over time this beauty will improve dullness and encourages the production of collagen and elastane in your face (yes please to an instant face lift!). Hyaluronic Acid - I absolutely love this one! This naturally occurs in our bodies as HA, it is moisture grabbing - Humectant - and is absolutely PERFECT for anyone who suffers with dry and flaky skin as it not only retains moisture in the skin, it adds moisture to the skin - win win! Lactic Acid - This is a bit more gentle than Glycolic acid but effectively does the same thing, which is great if you suffer from sensitivity from the dryness. Dry skin types may find it harder to combat the signs of aging and require more moisture from products. Oleic Acid - What a fab moisturiser! Dry skin can suffer from Acne due to an excess of dead and sticky skin cells - I know it sounds gross, sorry! These skin cells can then block pores and cause breakouts. This is where Oleic acid comes in and is a game changer for skin that is dry and acne prone. It is a fatty acid that rejuvenates the skin without causing breakouts. Tartaric Acid - This key ingredient can actually be found in wine (I'm sold already). This beauty is full of antioxidants and it smooths the texture of skin which is great for any dryness or flaking. When it comes to dry skin, you want to focus on products that are going to help remove dead skin but also re-hydrate and re-texture. You'll want to avoid harsh and drying soaps and replenish your skin with a toner locked with skin replenishing ingredients. Ensure you exfoliate and treat with the products above to enrich your dry skin. With dry skin, normal moisturiser won't cut it, you want high powered blends of essential lipids, ceramides and calming agents. Always finish with a broad-spectrum SPF with skin nourishment.
SENSITIVE - Key word: Gentle
Anyone can suffer from sensitive skin, regardless of your skin type and quite frankly, it sucks! I've learned that there are certain products I cannot use as it will quite literally feel like my skin is burning off my face, usually anything fragranced. Finding a routine when you suffer from skin sensitivity is a pain in the ass and can be stressful (not to mention expensive!). With sensitive skin you'll want to be super gentle and treat it like a new born baby. Do not use harsh exfoliators or scrub your skin to the high heavens! Instead, use Polyhydroxy Acids. PHAS have large molecular structures meaning that they stick to the skins surface and are very gentle. They assist in calming existing irritation but also boost your skin with antioxidants, so I hear you ask, where to start? Lactobionic Acid and Gluconic Acid are a perfect match for sensitive skin and beginners.
Things to avoid if you have sensitive skin;
Scrubs
Harsh cleaning brushes
Irritating ingredients such as Alcohol / menthol / mint / citrus / lavender
Unprotected Sun exposure
Excessive heat
Fragranced cleansers - Including Fragranced plant oils (see irritating ingredients)
Stick to soothing plant ingredients such as; Chamomile, evening primrose, liquorice and ginger root. And ultimately, listen to your skin! You'll know if you are using something that does not feel good for you!
OILY - Key word: Clearing.
Those who suffer with oily skin will probably find they break out a lot more than the average Joe. The issue with Oily skin is that you have to be careful with the products you use to avoid breakouts. The typical oily skinner will no doubt be scrubbing their T-zone, rubbing alcohol products all over there face until it burns, be scrubbing way to much with black head cleansers and just using WAY too many harsh products on their skin. In turn, causing severe sensitivity because you end up breaking down your skins natural barriers. How do I know this I hear you ask?..... BECAUSE THAT WAS ME! I have all too much experience of breakouts, acne, and ruining my skin because I was so insecure of spots. But there are so many ways we can treat oily skin and prevent breakouts without damaging it! So dear god please stop scrubbing your face with apricot scrub and read the following;
Azelaic Acid - The ultimate skin smoother! This is known for its anti-inflammatory properties and is amazing for anyone who suffers with acne and frequent breakouts. This skin care hero practically stops the growth of acne causing bacteria in its tracks. Prevention is better than cure!
Glycolic Acid - Fab for both dry and acne prone skin! This acid stops the over production of sebum which is the culprit of acne and blemishes.
Lactic Acid - A gentle way to control excess oil and also repair acne scarring! This one is perfect if you suffer from oily and sensitive skin as it doesn't penetrate the skin as deeply.
Salicylic acid - If you suffer from oily skin or acne/blemishes GET ON THIS NOW. I absolutely swear by this! Salicylic acid is derived from willow bark and breaks down the oily sebum that clogs up pores whilst also helping to prevent blemishes and breakouts. It increases cell turn over and also repairs damage caused by acne.
Retinol - This absolute wonder serum can heal a lot of skin concerns, but is great at treating all things acne. It's so good, I dedicated an entire blog post to it (feel free to browse!).
Niacinamide - This is a great serum that works wonders for Acne prone skin - it's also a key ingredient in ALOT of spot on acne treatments. You know the ones that get rid of spots in 4 hours? YEP that's niacinamide working hard! It's great if you suffer from oily but sensitive skin as it creates a barrier from external stressors and pollution. It's also great for reducing scarring, hyperpigmentation, evens skin tone and minimises large pores!
Green tea - Green tea helps reduce redness and inflammation as well as kill bacteria that causes acne, leading to clear and smooth skin.
The trick with oily skin is to not put any more oil into the skin, so avoid products that are not noncomedogenic. Water based products are a great place to start and focus on the skin clearing ingredients that will help unclog pores and remove excess sebum. You'll want to avoid any drying ingredients as actually they have the opposite effect and you end up producing more oil (Like alcohol cleansers...BIG NONO).
Scenario! Here's a quick look into the products I use, being a combo / Sensitive skin type.
Salicylic Cleanser
Glycolic acid toner
Niacinamide / Vitamin C
Retinol
AHA / BHA exfoliating skin peel (twice weekly)
Dermalogica Active moist moisturiser
I'm not saying my routine is the best option, but it works for me! Bear in mind, I don't use all these products on the same day, they are split into AM / PM and alternate days, but these are my go-to products that keep my skin super clear, healthy and glowing. I know I've thrown a fair bit at you, but hopefully you'll start looking at the ingredients on the back of your products from now on to ensure it's going to give your skin the best results and least irritation rather than slapping anything on your face. All the products and info above is to help you to TREAT your skin type!
Treating skin can come in all forms, for example, you can buy specific serums / Acids, or they can be incorporated into facial washes, toners and mositurisers. I choose to treat my skin with a vitamin C cream, but there are plenty of moisturisers and SPF that will also contain it. My salicylic cleanser is a face wash rather than a Serum. So really you can build a routine including treatments to however suits you and works best into your daily routine!
A simple start is;
Cleanser
Toner
Hydrate (mist or serums)
Exfoliating serums
Treat (Vitamin C etc)
Moisturiser and eye cream
Face oil (if required - my skin doesn't like it!)
SUN CREAM!
So hopefully now you feel better prepared and more able to recognise the products out there that can really help your skin concerns! Plus, you can see by my little list that you don't have to use EVERYTHING that's out there. Strip it back to basics, keep it simple and stay consistent because; Consistent. Perseverance. Success. So my dolls, I release you into the world to find YOUR products for YOUR skin type. Build your new routine and let's make your skin EXTRAORDINARY. Until next time!
Remember I am not a dermatologist or a medical professional, if you have any concerns you will need to speak with your doctor!
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